Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing is a remarkable multi-peak climbing journey in Nepal’s Everest Region. Both the peaks, which lie near Mt Everest, are climbable in a single trip. Only 25 km separate the cliffs and nothing else.
Mera Peak(6,461m) is the tallest trekking peak in Nepal. And Island or Imja Tse(6,189m) is a picturesque peak that looks like an island in the sea of ice.
These two peaks have been attracting both beginners and experts. Both expeditions have unique experiences to gather. You have wholesome to collect when you climb them in a single trip. That is why this remarkable multi-peak journey is here for your grab.
Mera and Island Peak Climbing takes around 22-25 days. It starts with a flight to Lukla, and then the walk begins through Everest or Khumbu Region. Gradually, you explore the whole area by walking. This part of the expedition provides you with a complete trekking experience. Then you reach the base camp of Mera Peak to climb the first one. With all skill and stamina, you mount it.
Next, the journey progresses via Amphu Laptsa Pass to another. You take a demanding road to the base camp of Island Peak and then to the top. It is the part where it is overwhelming to watch impressive mountains all around. Alongside, it’s an achievement to climb two peaks on one try.
On this exciting peak expedition, you will have many ups and downs. They turn you into an expert climber, surely. You will have a remarkable memoir of your experience to share with the world. This expedition involves many things besides mountains, Sherpas, and Everest Region. Only by doing it can you know what it is all about.
Further, you can read the necessary information about Mera Peak and Island Peak. If you are serious about the climb, read it until the end.
Climb Mera Peak and Island Peak jointly or separately?
Mera Peak and Island Peak are famous trekking peaks sharing the same home, i.e., Khumbu Region. Only separated by 25 km, you can climb one or both of them. It all depends on who you are and how prepared you are.
If you are a beginner planning your first climb, only one would be better. But if you already have some experience, good alpine skills, and good physical preparation, you must plan for the Mera Peak and Island Peak expedition. The expedition is made for you.
Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing is a fantastic mountaineering journey that lasts around 25 days. In that time, you will complete a whole round excursion of the Khumbu Region and climb the tops. There will be days when you will walk on nothing but snow. And there will be days when you have nothing but a green trail. Beginning at Lukla, after a short flight from Kathmandu, the journey will meander through the region to the peaks.
As said earlier, you will need good health and fitness. The multi-peak journey is challenging at times. It involves high-altitude walking and climbing above 6,461m. You will climb many ridges, both dry and snowy. You will cross many glaciers and ice sections. The technical sections of the peaks will also be there.
Hence, you need a body that can see through all the challenges of the expedition. Plus, you must have good mountaineering skills up to PD/PD+. If you think you are the one, you should do it. The fantastic journey circling the higher Everest Region is worth doing. If that is not possible, you can climb Mera Peak or Island Peak. That is also a good deal.
Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Route
Climbing Mera Peak
Around 20 to 25 days are enough for Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing. After you land in Kathmandu and prepare everything for the expedition, you will have a 30-minute flight. The flight will take you to Lukla, the gateway to Everest, providing stunning pictures.
Like every Everest Region trek, the walk will begin from Lukla to Chhutang. You will trek up to the place via several forests and hamlets. The next day, you will take a road to Thuli Kharka, which will see you through Zatrawala Pass. You will witness some magical views of several peaks of the region. Through many ups and downs, you will end up in Thuli Kharka.
In this way, the route will progress through Thulikhara-Kothe-Thagnak. You will trek forward through Hinku Valley following the Hinku River. In total, you will take two days to reach Thagnak from Thuli Kharka. As you continue on the route, you will reach Khare. You will be continuously gaining altitudes from the first day. To slow things down, you will have an acclimatization day in Khare.
In the wake of acclimatization day, you will continue your way upwards. The whole day of trekking will bring you to Mera Base Camp, the base camp of your first peak. The next day you will trek up to Mera High Camp, and the following day, you will push for Mera Peak’s top. The non-technical climb will oversee your carefulness and perseverance. In such a manner, you will celebrate the successful climb of Mera Peak(6,461m). You will come down to Kongma Dingma for a worthy night to finish the day.
Climbing Island Peak
The route now will turn towards the next and the last peak of the excursion, Island Peak. The whole day, you will take a scenic trail that meanders through Honku Valley to Seto Pokhari. From Seto Pokhari, you will amble towards South Amphu Lapcha Base Camp by coming across scenic mountains. The next day, you will cross Amphu Lapcha La Pass(5,845m) to find the northern Amphu Lapcha La Pass.
After summiting both base camps, you will finally have another day of trek to reach Island Peak Base Cam. You will have a contingency day for acclimatization or lousy weather. The Island Peak’s summit push will happen straight from its base camp. Island Peak is a bit more technical than Mera Peak. So the climb will start early in the dark hours, and it will ask you several things ahead.
Before you reach Island Peak’s summit, you must cross numerous crevasses, rocky paths, and snowlines. So using climbing gear, rope, and your skill & experience, you will rejoice at Island Peak(6,189m). It is one of the higher achievements one can enjoy in one’s life. You will take this opportunity to cheer your success with mesmerizing views of Mt Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and even Kanchenjunga.
After successfully climbing Island Peak and returning to base camp, you will walk towards Dingboche the next day. Now the route is easier as you will have regular downhills. The walking speed will also increase. From Dingboche, you will trace down to Namche Bazaar after spending a night there.
The next day, watching all the good views and things of the trail, you will reach Lukla to finish the Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing walk. It all ends here. You will celebrate all the good and bad parts of the journey to Island Peak and Mera Peak. And the following day, you will take a flight to Kathmandu from there to call the whole journey a day.
Difficulty Level of Mera Peak and Island Peak
You will trek through plains, hills, and mountains as you can expect. The trail during the climb will be of all types. Sometimes it will be all snowy uphill, and sometimes, it will be rocky terrain. There will be countless uphills and downhills. On average, you will spend 6-8 hours doing nothing but walking. And on the summit days, you have to spend even more hours.
Likewise, altitude will be another challenge during the journey. The climb will start from 2800m(ILukla) and reach its highest at 6,476m(Island Peak). In this big altitude gain journey, you can have altitude sickness if you are not well acclimatized. Sickness is such a thing to avoid when you are in the mountains. Otherwise, you will succumb to it and have to give up on the climb.
Above all, the climbing grades of Mera Peak and Island Peak can be the main challenges. Mera Peak is an Alpine Graded PD peak, and Island Peak is an Alpine PD+ graded peak. Although they are graded as beginner climbs, the mountains can challenge you. Island Peak is more technical than Island Peak. Snowfall, rocky slopes, headwall, and crevasses prevail on this multi peaks climb.
You must climb those with your skills and gear, such as ropes, fixed lines, crampons, and ice axes. Overall, if mounted jointly, the Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing is a long journey that can sometimes be hard. But the challenges are surmountable with the proper preparation and guidance.
Climbing Experience for Mera Peak and Island Peak
Prior climbing experience is a big plus; however, those with no experience can also opt for this multi-peak expedition. A doer must have excellent prowess in climbing and mountaineering. Mountaineering training gives you enough chances to learn skills such as using ropes, crossing crevasses, using ice axes, and more.
You will be ready to climb the peaks when you have relevant experience or excellent training, or both. What you learn during training or through prior climbing experience comes in handy here. During climbing headwalls, you must use a karabiner, jumar, and harness. You can use those things only if you have good training or experience.
Likewise, at times of the climb, there will be crevasses to cross. The only way to cross them will be using ladders, which are challenging if practiced. Not only that, you must use other various gear to climb Mera Peak and Island Peak. Therefore, alpine training is necessary for Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing.
Alternatively, people with good mountaineering history can climb this peak without training. If you already have an account of climbing mountains above 6000m, you can do this climb gracefully. Yes, you need to have enough expertise through prior experiences, which is obvious.
Preparation for Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing?
If climbed in one single trip, Mera Peak and Island Peak is an undoubtedly complex journey. But as you know, difficulties are meant to be overcome. People can complete the arduous journey if they are well-prepared, trained, and experienced.
First, you should be in a position to do any kind of walking. For that, you can do physical training related to cardio and strength. Your muscle and entire body should be ready to take any tricky or easy walk throughout the excursion. Hence, first of all, make your body fine through cardio and strength exercises. Plan a good cardio and strength routine and act on it until you feel ready.
Second, as mentioned earlier, alpine training is necessary if you have yet to gain prior experience. When you have no record, you do not have expertise or skill. You, indeed, wouldn’t send someone without experience or knowledge on a climb.
So climbing training is a must if you lack experience. The activity makes you ready skillfully.
Third and last, having prior climbing experience is also a way to prepare for this climb. It is not that necessary. But if you do it after climbing a lower or higher peak, you will feel much more comfortable. Experience is an excellent thing to own.
In these ways, you can prepare yourself for this extraordinary expedition.
Best Time for Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing
Have you been to Nepal before? If yes, you surely know the answers already.
It is Autumn and Spring, the two best times for the climb. These two climatic seasons provide excellent weather for mountaineering expeditions. Not merely for climbing, the seasons are great for any adventure activities in Nepal. The promising conditions of the seasons favor all outings.
Autumn(September-November) and Spring(March-May) are sunny, warm, cloudless, and dry. You can expect stable weather through these months. Each of the months has something special for visitors. The spring months are colorful due to blooming rhododendrons and other flowers. Or Autumn season is excellent for encountering Nepalese festivals while climbing peaks. For all reasons, Autumn and Spring are the best times for this trip. That is why the windows are high times in the Himalayas.
And Monsoon and Winter are not the best times for it. The weather is unstable and unpleasant. It becomes hard to guess when it can rain or when not. When the weather is unknown, you can have disappointing climbing times. Therefore, to keep you safe, we do not recommend these two seasons, although it is possible.
Nepal, certainly, is a fantastic end for mountaineering adventures. The country has adequate mountains for every kind of climber, whether Mera peak, Island Peak, or Mt Everest.
In this case, Mera and Island Peak in one expedition is a good choice. This exciting journey will take you through the famous Khumbu Region to the two tops, overlooking many beautiful happenings.
Eventually, you will finish the expedition by climbing the two most famous trekking peaks. You will gather vast climbing experience in Nepal’s mountains along with many good memories. And that is just outstanding for a mountaineer.